Restaurant Review: The New Chef at New York’s Famed Gotham Bar and Grill Is Tearing Up the Old Menu and Starting Fresh
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In 2011, the New York Times reviewed Gotham Bar and Grill, debonair broker of power meals near Union Square since 1984, for the fourth time. Then-critic Sam Sifton started in on chef Alfred Portale’s shrimp-and-tomato risotto, saying the dish “would not have been out of place at a pop-up restaurant in some corner of Bushwick, [

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