Bagels are under siege, and if you need proof, I offer a single word: Airy. Bagels, which have always been synonymous with chewy, have recently been described — approvingly — as airy on both coasts and in Canada. Also, fluffy. And because they are, they risk losing another defining characteristic, along with the chew. Some of them — not all, but some — no longer have a hole in the center, which raises the existential question, when does a bagel cease to be a bagel and become another kind of... Read this story
